Nestled in the savannahs of Guyana’s South Rupununi, Morai Morai Ranch in the village of Katoonarib is a sanctuary for eco-tourism, offering a unique glimpse into Indigenous life. For owner Nicholas “Uncle Bakes” Cyril, it’s more than a business — it’s a lifeline. A place where traditions are passed down and the land is honoured.
But now, this cherished ranch stands on the frontlines of a growing environmental crisis. Climate change — with its erratic weather patterns, ranging from prolonged droughts to flash floods — is threatening operations and livelihoods.
“I had a setback lately. The rains came, all my house fell, and now we are trying to rehabilitate,” Nicholas shared in a recent interview.
A Ranch Washed Away
In June 2024, after heavy rainfall, Nicholas noticed the nearby lake swelling — an unusual sight.
“[The lake] is nearby, and the water came so high — I suffered some loss.”
Much of his home and business was washed away. Though now in rebuilding mode, Nicholas admits Morai Morai took a serious beating. Visitor numbers have also dropped since the floods.
He has, however, received help from the Guyana Tourism Authority (GTA) to begin reconstruction.
Tourism Meets Climate Reality
According to GTA director Kamrul Baksh, although the authority doesn’t have a dedicated climate programme, they do support tourism operators facing challenges. Recently, GTA helped relocate Arapaimas — large freshwater fish vital to Guyana’s aquatic ecosystems — to deeper waters due to low river levels caused by drought.
“We’ve looked at [climate change] on a case-by-case basis to assess its impacts on tourism,” Baksh said. While GTA currently offers training and capacity building, a more proactive response to climate change is being considered.
“I think it’s fundamental now, given the effects we’ve seen,” he added.
With GTA’s support, Nicholas has rebuilt parts of his home and eco-tourism business. But now, the persistent dry season poses a new threat.
The Dry Season and the Fight for Cassava
Morai Morai offers hands-on cultural experiences — from palm weaving to crafting traditional cassava bread. But extreme dryness has made it hard to grow cassava, a key crop for both consumption and tourism.
“But now, it’s the dry weather. It’s hard for the plants to grow, and the cassava is struggling too. Remember, cassava stays in the earth — when it floods or gets too dry, it’s affected,” Nicholas explained.
Nearby, Katoonarib resident Diana Damingo is experiencing the same hardship.
“Everyone in the village has small gardens and all the cassava dried up. We don’t have any right now — they’ve all died out,” she said.
Cassava is a resilient staple in Indigenous diets, but even this drought-tolerant root crop is suffering under the pressure of climate extremes. Yields are low, and quality is declining.
Diana, who also helps at the ranch, noted that hinterland residents, many of whom rely on subsistence farming, are especially vulnerable.
“It’s hard, but we are trying,” she said.
Support for Indigenous Farmers
Despite the challenges, some support is reaching Indigenous communities. During a recent outreach in the Rupununi, Agriculture Minister Zulfikar Mustapha met with farmers to hear their concerns. Commitments were made to boost cassava yields and improve soil testing — part of a wider effort to strengthen food security and climate resilience in Guyana’s hinterland.
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This story was originally published by The Guyana Chronicle, with the support of the Caribbean Climate Justice Journalism Fellowship, a joint venture between Climate Tracker Caribbean and Open Society Foundations.
